larsmx5

...

med 148kmt i slutthastighet må det ha vært 201meter.......:rolleyes:

jeg kommer og skal muligens kjøre. må bare prøve å få meg noen dekk med bedere feste denne gangen.....

solgt......

1992 mazda mx5 greddy turbo kit med cossi intercooler. greddy profec e01 boostcontroller og e-manager greddy type-s dumpvalve tarrox slissa og borra bremseskiver og klosser

Den lyden kommer av slitene lagere i gir kassa. jeg har også hatt den lyden i min bil,Den ble borte når jeg bytta olje.... men jeg har en ny girkasse som snart skal inn.

300kr........

Bil: VW transporter Årsmodell: 2001 Karosseri: Varebil Reg.nr.: CF13093 Drivstoff: Diesel Gir: Manuelt gir Antall dører: 5 Antall seter: 2 KM: 126000 Pris: 170.000,- Reg.avg.: 7.601,- Farge: Blå Utstyr: Alu.felger (sommer), 2 Hjulsett, Skinn seter, Oppvarmet speil, Elektrisk vindushever, Servostyring, El. justerbare speil, Startsperre, Alu.felger (vinter), Radio RDS CD spiller, Sentrallås, fjernbetjent, Tåkelys foran, Airbag, 2 stk, Servicehefte, Tectyl beh., Recaro stol, Eibach 40mm senket, lakkerte støtfangere/speil. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- vegar nilsen tlf: 92050603

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

terra skadeforsikring 12000km 30% bonus fullkasko 12000kr 92mod mx5

når begynner det??

det blir nok mange der på fredags kvelden. jeg prøvde å ringe å bestille plass, men han sa at di ikke kunne reservere plasser....

her er det en Autronic SMC til salgs: Autronic SMC

veldig bra første streetmeet! gleder meg til neste meeting.......:)

nei desverre.....

haha...bra jostein!!:D :D men avskilta di moppen din kun pga manglende lys og Hasardkjøring i rundkjøring??

1991 nissan 200sx s13 1,8turbo rød,164000km, dumpvalve,nytt 2.5 effektanlegg. borbet 16"sommer, org vinterfelger,stort sterioanlegg. fabrikssenket, og sotede ruter. pris:105000kr tlf: 48268383 mail: mike200sx@hotmail.com

jeg har en gokart til salgs! denne går fært, har kjørt fra 125cc gokarter med gir med denne.... parolini lemans 2002mod motor: vortex vl\e 100cc ICA regndekk ikke brukt som ny! nypris 38000 selges 20000kr ta kontakt får mer info! larsmx5@hotmail.com

fant dette på miata.net: Idle Speed Adjustment Robert Meushaw rvmeush@home.com are the tips of several others who helped him. As a matter of intellectual curiosity, I decided to investigate the correlatio shares some of his experiences when working on accurately setting his idle speed. Included n between the Miata tach reading and the IG- signal on the diagnostic connector. Fortunately I have a digital storage oscilloscope and a digital frequency measuring multimeter. The signal coming from the IG- test point is a pulse approximately 2 milliseconds in width and approx. 12 volts in amplitude. I measured the pulse frequency when the tach indicated that the car was idling between 700 and 1000 rpm. The scope reading and frequency meter reading indicated approximately 29 pulses/sec. Multiplying by 60 gave 1740 pulses/min., which is not correct. But, dividing by 2 gives 870 pulses/min which is about right. Therefore, the conversion from the IG- signal to rpm is RPM = ( PPS x 60)/2 or PPS x 30 This is perhaps more effort than is needed to get a correct rpm reading, but inquiring minds want to know. Please note that these measurements were taken without shorting the TEN pin to ground, but the rpm signal correlation would still be the same. The tacho connects to the IG terminal on the diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector is on the driver's side and is cunningly disguised as a DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR :-) (close-up view) It's nice when things identify themselves :-) If you pop the lid of the diagnostic connector, you'll see a bunch of terminals and, inside the lid, a little diagram saying what the terminals are. To set the idle, put a jumper wire between terminal TEN and ground, and connect the tacho to the IG terminal (that's towards the bottom right hand corner of the connector block. The TEN <- > ground shorting wire is necessary to properly set both idle and timing. You may find, as I did, that when you connect the external tacho, the car's tacho reads zero - don't worry, you haven't broken it, it's just that most budget analogue meters have fairly low impedance and affect the tacho filter, so the internal tach doesn't see any pulses. The idle speed adjuster (close-up view) is at the front of the intake manifold on the passenger side, and should be covered by rubber plug. When I did my timing, I hunted around for this plug for a bit before realising that the plug wasn't there and the speed adjuster screw was exposed. So look for either a likely looking recessed screw, or a rubber plug that looks like it's hiding one. To increase the idle rate, turn the screw anti-clockwise. It looks like it's about half a turn for about 500 rpm. The manual I had said that the idle speed should be between 800 and 900 rpm, but I set mine a little higher to get rid of the idle-droop I was getting from time to time. When you're all done, bung up the timing adjuster plug, remove the jumpers, clip the diagnostic connector top, drop the hood and have a blast :-) uten navn.bmp

fant dette på miata.net: Idle Speed Adjustment Robert Meushaw rvmeush@home.com are the tips of several others who helped him. As a matter of intellectual curiosity, I decided to investigate the correlatio shares some of his experiences when working on accurately setting his idle speed. Included n between the Miata tach reading and the IG- signal on the diagnostic connector. Fortunately I have a digital storage oscilloscope and a digital frequency measuring multimeter. The signal coming from the IG- test point is a pulse approximately 2 milliseconds in width and approx. 12 volts in amplitude. I measured the pulse frequency when the tach indicated that the car was idling between 700 and 1000 rpm. The scope reading and frequency meter reading indicated approximately 29 pulses/sec. Multiplying by 60 gave 1740 pulses/min., which is not correct. But, dividing by 2 gives 870 pulses/min which is about right. Therefore, the conversion from the IG- signal to rpm is RPM = ( PPS x 60)/2 or PPS x 30 This is perhaps more effort than is needed to get a correct rpm reading, but inquiring minds want to know. Please note that these measurements were taken without shorting the TEN pin to ground, but the rpm signal correlation would still be the same. The tacho connects to the IG terminal on the diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector is on the driver's side and is cunningly disguised as a DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR :-) (close-up view) It's nice when things identify themselves :-) If you pop the lid of the diagnostic connector, you'll see a bunch of terminals and, inside the lid, a little diagram saying what the terminals are. To set the idle, put a jumper wire between terminal TEN and ground, and connect the tacho to the IG terminal (that's towards the bottom right hand corner of the connector block. The TEN <- > ground shorting wire is necessary to properly set both idle and timing. You may find, as I did, that when you connect the external tacho, the car's tacho reads zero - don't worry, you haven't broken it, it's just that most budget analogue meters have fairly low impedance and affect the tacho filter, so the internal tach doesn't see any pulses. The idle speed adjuster (close-up view) is at the front of the intake manifold on the passenger side, and should be covered by rubber plug. When I did my timing, I hunted around for this plug for a bit before realising that the plug wasn't there and the speed adjuster screw was exposed. So look for either a likely looking recessed screw, or a rubber plug that looks like it's hiding one. To increase the idle rate, turn the screw anti-clockwise. It looks like it's about half a turn for about 500 rpm. The manual I had said that the idle speed should be between 800 and 900 rpm, but I set mine a little higher to get rid of the idle-droop I was getting from time to time. When you're all done, bung up the timing adjuster plug, remove the jumpers, clip the diagnostic connector top, drop the hood and have a blast :-)

jeg pleier å vente en uke's tid... men om en 2-3 dager går det greit å polere,men rubbinga ville jeg vente litt lengere med.

parkerings plassen rundt paviljongen og storsenter parkerings plassen er vel et fint alternativ....

noen som vet om en eller har en azev a 7.5x17 et20 felg??

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denne front fangeren likte jeg