YAY, endelig litt drifting i norge og =) hadde sx`en min funka som den skulle hadde jeg blitt med. men får vel se om jeg ikke får tinga plass hos thomas eller noe hvis han skal dit ;) Uansett så kommer jeg!
Fant forresten det her på et australsk silvia-forum. var vistnok en som dreiv med det som har skrivi det:
Rims and Tyres:
Rims
$5000 Momo wheels may look really nice, but save them for the showroom. This is drifting, you are going to hit stuff, and often the bits you will damage first are your rims and tyres. Run a set of cheap crappy mags, or standard steel rims. Running these into kerbs will not shatter your bank balance.
Tyres
You will want to run the cheapest, crappiest pair of radials you can find on the rear end because you will be shredding the crap out of them. The cheaper they are to replace the better. On the front end however, you will want some superior grippy stuff to keep the nose pointed where you want it. With the money you save by buying crap rear tyres, buy a decent set of soft compound fronts but keep in mind if you spin out a lot, you'll start wearing these out too.
If you get to know a tyre supplier you can pick up the crappy old tyres they're throwing out for $$CHEAP$$. My last set was a bargain, thanks to Shane from Goodyear Vic Park. Often these tyres have been sitting in the sun for a few months and have gone hard as rock, making them absolutely *SWEET* drift material. Most people will opt for new tyres while their current set still have legal tread on them (barely)... excellent drift potential here. Store them in diesel for extra mid-corner smoke action.
Pressure
Tyres should be nice and hard to promote wear as evenly as possible across the face of the tread. Front tyres should be run somewhere between 30 and 35psi to provide optimum grip, and rears should be run at 40psi+ to make them hard and easier to break traction. If you run tyres too soft you run the risk of peeling them off the rim in the result of a spin, particularly if you end up going sideways into dirt/grass/gravel/etc.
Suspension:
Components
A good set of decent shocks and stiff springs will work wonders for your drift ability. Do not excessively lower the car. As cool as it looks, it really sucks for driving sideways. A set of GAB, Tein, KYB or even Koni shocks will give the car noticably better handling than standard gear, and will keep the vehicle flatter during a drift. Nolathane bushes help to keep the system nice and tight, increasing vehicle response and control. Upgraded sway bars will help keep the car flat in the drift, making it easier to churn the rear tyres due to even weight transfer. Run the front end nice and soft (or none at all) to prevent understeer or a 'skippy' front end. Set the rear bar hard as buggery to provoke drifting as the vehicle transfers weight. A set of strut braces front and rear not only provide carpark cred but help to make the shell of the vehicle a little stiffer, preventing flexing of your carefully set up suspension geometry (or something), which leads us to...
Geometry
Dial up a phenomenal amount of negative camber on the front wheels, 6 or 7 degrees is barely enough. This makes the car easier to control mid-slide. Add a fair amount of caster as well to aid the wheels in returning to neutral upon the exit of a drift. The Nissan Silvia S13 comes with nearly 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the rears. Dial this off. This will make the car a little more taily, and spread wear evenly across the surface of the tyres. It may take some explaining to your wheel aligner why you want to make a modification they will perceive as unsafe. A picture says a thousand words, people. Show them a shot of you sideways to convey understanding.
Keep in mind some of these modifications may result in the car not being street legal depending on your local road laws, etc. etc.
