Vannlekasje (fotbrønn), mistet speedometer ++

[EspenWA]

Hei!

Jeg har en 2000 mod som lekker vann. Jeg vet ikke hvordan det kommer inn, men det renner helt innerst ved i fotbrønnen på passasjersiden. Noen som har tips til å fiks dette?

 

Har forøvrig også mistet speedometer ++. Den blinker til med ujevne mellomrom, men er stort sett død. Den har blitt verre og verre.. Det er kun kjørecomputeren som virker. Stereo og sigarettenner har også sluttet å virke.

 

Bilen skal på eu kontroll i mars, men jeg skulle gjerne ha beholdt den litt til. Motoren går som en kule...

[Quattro73]

Noe alá dette; http://www.bilforumet.no/topic/194376-vannlekkasje-hdor-foran-octavia-2/

Når det gjelder speedometer så høres det ut som dårlig kontakt - ett eller annet sted.

[Senilo]

Speedometer feilen er en vanlig feil på disse bilene, er dårlig kontakt på noen av loddingene på kretskortet. Finner ikke linken nå, men er en guide på Briskoda hvordan du demonterer og hvor du skal lodde pånytt for å få fikset dette problemet.. 

[Senilo]

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/213692-speedo-instrument-cluster-problems-solved/

[Quattro73]

Super guide du har funnet, så bra at den også burde ligge tilgjengelig her på forumet. Klipp og lim;

 

Octavia I

 

 

finally got some time to write this one down. disassembled my cluster 2 days ago and wanted to write a little guide.
tools needed: T20 + T10 torx skrewdriver, flat skrewdriver, pliers, soldering iron
keep in mind, the soldering does require precision tools.

the whole job is done without key in the ignition ! (for immo's sake)

first step is to remove the plastic cover. two T20 and some clips and it should easily be off.

 

 

the cluster is secured by two more T20's and two clips. unskrew the T20's then lean the cluster forward and gently pull it out of the clips.

 

 

pull out the two connectors (one on each side) and remove the cluster

to open the cluster unskrew the two T10's marked with 1 then unclip the plastic clips marked with 2

 

 

mark the position of the needles then remove them by twisting them counterclockwise and gently pulling outwards

 

 

remove the "gauge background" and you should get:

 

 

there's no need to cut any plastic (as seen in countless other guides). on the backside you'll find metal clips that hold the displays in place. twist them with the pliers, remove them and remove the displays. it's time to remove the plastic grid. start by pressing the clips on the back, then pull the grid out.

we now have a naked circuit board. time to go hunting. we're looking for a TLE 4276 voltage regulator and a resistor bridge in particular. (any other joint that looks fishy is to be inspected and soldered as well). board designs vary, whilst a fellow briskoda member sent me this "diagram" which i translated from polish, mine was completely different.

 

 

the stabilizer (TLE 4276) may look like this.

 

generally it's located here: (mine was between the fuel and temp gauge, surrounded by a metal housing)

 

 

the resistor bridge we're looking for: (image from the same polish forum, translated via google translate) (ignore the fact that the displays are here still in place)

 

 

 

solder the pins and connections highlighted (TLE and resistor bridge), look for any fishy connections and solder them to.
i'we soldered all the harness connector pins and various other joints and pins just to be on the safe side. besides, a capacitor fell of my board the minute i removed the white plastic cover... now that's some quality work VAG...

putting it back together is kinda' the reverse procedure. i don't know exactly if the gauges auto-reset to their starting positions, as i manually set them in the right place to eliminate further discomfort.

job done and no gauge faults since. waiting for a longer drive to see if anything still pops up.

[EspenWA]

Noe alá dette; http://www.bilforumet.no/topic/194376-vannlekkasje-hdor-foran-octavia-2/

Når det gjelder speedometer så høres det ut som dårlig kontakt - ett eller annet sted.

Dessverre er min lekkasje vesentlig større. Etter en natt med regn, er det kommet inn 1 - 2 cm. med vann på gulvet. Har ikke målt, men det er flere liter... 

Dog- takk for tipset :)

[EspenWA]

Tusen takk for tipset! Blir spennende å prøve dette. 

 

Super guide du har funnet, så bra at den også burde ligge tilgjengelig her på forumet. Klipp og lim;

 

 

the cluster is secured by two more T20's and two clips. unskrew the T20's then lean the cluster forward and gently pull it out of the clips.

 

 

pull out the two connectors (one on each side) and remove the cluster

to open the cluster unskrew the two T10's marked with 1 then unclip the plastic clips marked with 2

 

 

mark the position of the needles then remove them by twisting them counterclockwise and gently pulling outwards

 

 

remove the "gauge background" and you should get:

 

 

there's no need to cut any plastic (as seen in countless other guides). on the backside you'll find metal clips that hold the displays in place. twist them with the pliers, remove them and remove the displays. it's time to remove the plastic grid. start by pressing the clips on the back, then pull the grid out.

we now have a naked circuit board. time to go hunting. we're looking for a TLE 4276 voltage regulator and a resistor bridge in particular. (any other joint that looks fishy is to be inspected and soldered as well). board designs vary, whilst a fellow briskoda member sent me this "diagram" which i translated from polish, mine was completely different.

 

 

the stabilizer (TLE 4276) may look like this.

 

generally it's located here: (mine was between the fuel and temp gauge, surrounded by a metal housing)

 

 

the resistor bridge we're looking for: (image from the same polish forum, translated via google translate) (ignore the fact that the displays are here still in place)

 

 

 

solder the pins and connections highlighted (TLE and resistor bridge), look for any fishy connections and solder them to.
i'we soldered all the harness connector pins and various other joints and pins just to be on the safe side. besides, a capacitor fell of my board the minute i removed the white plastic cover... now that's some quality work VAG...

putting it back together is kinda' the reverse procedure. i don't know exactly if the gauges auto-reset to their starting positions, as i manually set them in the right place to eliminate further discomfort.

job done and no gauge faults since. waiting for a longer drive to see if anything still pops up.