caddy 1.2tsi 2011 mod - går i nødmodus

[Madura2]

Noen som har noen tips?? har en caddy 1.2 tsi bensin som med ujevne mellomrom går i nødmodus og bilen mister nesten all kraft, når dette hender så tenner den gule lampen EPC, dette har skjedd flere ganger men ikke med noe klart mønster og sist gang forsvant feilen over natten, har nå fått lånt meg feilkode leser men har foreløpig ikke klart å få frem feilen igjen så jeg kan lese av feilen (men vet den vil komme før eller siden)

Noen som har vært borti noe lignende??

[Quattro73]

Gidder ikke gjette for det kan være så mangt. Eneste fornuftige er diagnose, feilen er lagret slik at du trenger ikke vente på at den skal komme tilbake før du leser ut feil.

[Madura2]

Har prøvd diagnose men feilen ligger ikke lagret

[Jesper1201]

Hvis EPC lyser er det trigget en feilkode, denne slettes ikke av seg selv før etter minst 30 feilfrie sykluser (avhengig av feilens karakter), så hvis du ikke får lest ut noen feilkode på motorstyring er det nærliggende å tro at utstyret du bruker er heller tvilsomt. 

[Madura2]

Feilen har nå kommet tilbake og jeg har fått lest den av: 10478 - Charge Pressure Control Actuator P334A 00 [173] - Electrical Malfunction

Feilen kommer og går, noen som har noen tips ang dette?

 

Kom over dette tipset på ett forum og tenker det kan være verdt ett forsøk

FIX FOR P334A ISSUE…

Having had a couple of 1.2 TSI cars that have demonstrated this fault and investigated further, it seems there’s a design flaw with the turbo actuators on this engine (located just to the right of the exhaust heatshield and mounted on the turbo). The internal position sensor’s plastic slides wear out and this extra slop allows the moving part of the sensor to become jammed at a self-locking angle to the fixed housing. To remedy this:

1. Purchase a 5 lobe security star drive set from Screwfix for about £20 to enable you to undo the 3 anti-tamper screws on the actuator. You'll also need some plastic grease (brake calliper grease will be fine) and spray on lube (must be high temperature & plastic compatible such as silicone or PTFE based - metal lubes may kill the plastics!!).

2. Undo the electrical connector on the actuator by pushing down on the jack whilst gently lifting the tab on the right (fingernails work best if you have them long enough but be careful as these connectors are notorious for becoming brittle and snapping. If this happens you’ll need a small zip tie to hold the connector together when you’re finished). When you see the clip release you can then lift off the jack.

3. Undo the 3 anti-tamper screws (receiving holes circled in picture in picture - two at the top and one slightly hidden at the bottom towards the front of the car) being careful not to drop them.



4. Separate the two main halves of the actuator by sliding the black plastic housing to the right. It has runners to keep everything aligned so you'll need to slide it a good distance before it's fully separated but there should be room in the engine bay to do so.

5. Using a small flathead screwdriver, lift the retaining tab up from the top of the position sensor (circled in image) and the moving part of the sensor should now spring away from the housing but still be retained by the spring.



6. Use your plastic compatible grease to lubricate the slides on either side of both the moving parts and housing of the sensor being very careful not to stress & deform the spring. Also grease the boss the spring sits on and then re-clip the moving part back into the housing.

7. Use your plastic compatible grease to lubricate the teeth on all the gears on the other half of the actuator (i.e. the sub-assembly remaining mounted on the car). Ask a friend to hold a small mirror and a torch and spray your plastic compatible lube around the metal slide and spring parts to the left of the gears as you won’t be able to get grease on there with it still being mounted in the car due to access.

8. Ensure the motor connector o-rings are clean and use your plastic compatible grease to lube them.

9. For good measure you can use some battery terminal grease on the motor connector prongs to ensure good conductivity.

10. Reassemble the actuator and reconnect the electrical jack.

11. Turn you ignition on full (no need to start engine) and check whether the actuator is making a high pitched tone. If it is, disconnect and reconnect the jack a few times until this stops to reset the motor.

12. Clear your fault codes as the car should now be fixed.

13. Enjoy not having to pay for a new turbo to be fitted which is the default procedure for this fault at a main dealer.

It should be noted this error is different to the closely related P334B error code which reflects a mechanical problem with the turbo bypass valve becoming obstructed.

[Jesper1201]

Jeg vet at det kom en software oppdatering bl.a for å få bukt med en bug/feilkode på turboaktuator på 1.2TSI. Jeg ville undersøkt om din har vært inne og har nyeste SW på motorstyring før jeg hadde gjort noe som helst.

Hvis ikke så indikerer feilen rett og slett en elektrisk feil med aktuator på turbo, det kan være i ledningsnettet eller en konkret feil i selve aktuatoren. 
Det er for all del bare å prøve den oppskriften du har funnet, veldig ofte - men ikke alltid, kan den «elektriske feilen» ofte ses med det blåtte øyet når elektrokomponenter tas fra hverandre.