En how 2 guide om hvordan gi bilen din ett nytt liv (Extreme Modem Warn!)

[clone baby]

First jobs after Winter 'Break'

 

 

 

First job was to fit the new front wings, front panel and slam panel on to the shell. To do this the car had to come off the spit

 

 

 

Initially the the panels were punched and then plug welded on to the shell - then I got carried away and decided to seam weld the joins. The wings are bolted onto the rails rather than welding because I suspect I may end end up changing them a few times! The fibreglass bonnet was bolted on to try and get the panel gaps reasonable but with pattern wings this is almost impossible. The front panel was seam welded where it joins the front cross member and inner wings as per the Ford rally preparation manual.

 

 

 

It was then time to get the car back on the spit. Guess what - it wouldn't fit. The holes in my new front panel must have been different to the ones on the car when I made it. I took the opportunity to re-design the mounting plates to provide more height adjustment (see pic.) A week was lost in the process though :-(

 

 

 

Also shown is the one of the strengthening plates added to the chassis where the front crossmember bolts on. Instead of fixing onto captive nuts the crossmember will be bolted right through the chassis. To prevent the chassis from being crushed tubed are inserted for the bolts to run through.

 

 

 

 

The bump stop plates on the chassis were cut off when the rear turrets were welded in. I had originally welded somefolded 3mm plate over this area to strengthen the chassis up for when it bottom out in use. Unknown to me was that in actual fact metal needs to be removed from this area - not put back! A friend of mine (cheers Jason) recommended 'scollopping' the chassis rails over the axle. This involves taking around an inch out of the chassis above the axle. Obviously the strength needs to be put back so I bent up a piece of 3mm plate to cover the hole I had created. As you can see this overlaps on to the chassis. While I was in the mood for welding - all the drain holes, in both the boot and floor areas were plated over and sealed using seam sealer.

 

 

 

 

At this point I had a brief thought about five linking the car, then a friend reminded me that this was supposed to be a 'budget build' - yeah right must be a large budget! Anyway I've decided no for now - so it was time for paint.

 

 

 

The whole underside of the car has received two coats of stone guard (UPOL Gravitex - cheap!), then a few thick coats of primer followed by about four layers of top coat. Unlike the topside of the car I wasn't too worried about the finish but it shines anyway!

 

[clone baby]

Painting

 

 

 

Having spent a couple of weeks with various electric sanders (palm sander, air fed DA, orbital sander) trying to prep the shell for painting, my brother turned up one day and said I would be better off doing it by hand with some 'de-nibbing pads'.

 

 

 

Anyway I hadn't a clue what these were but the following day he turned up with a bag full of them. They look like scouring pads but made with sandpaper instead of the wirey stuff on them. Anyway they did the job a treat (cheers Pete!).

 

 

 

Any rust (even surface) was treated with Hammerite Rust treatment which I recommend, in particular the underside of the roof skin had quite a bit of surface rust on, this was rough sanded to get smooth again then I thinned some of the rust treatment down and sprayed it on (usually it is brushed). This 'finds it's own level' and hence dried nice and flat in about 4 hours (apart from a couple of runs where I had been over enthusiastic with the spray gun!). I used the denibbing pads to get rid of the runs and then gave the whole of the panel a quick sand to provide a key for the primer.

 

 

 

Having flatted every panel off I gave the car a good coat of high build cellulose primer and left this a few days to dry off then it was back to the de-nibbing pads to flat off again to prep the car for the top coats. (yep - blisters-a-plenty!)

 

 

 

 

I'm using a white cellulose paint (cos it's cheaper) - it's nothing flash like 2k but it goes on easily and you are supposed to be able to paint it without any special mask or breathing equipment. A word of warning though - I was painting with it with the door shut one evening last week and had taken off my basic mask cos my glasses were steaming up - I was as sick as a dog and was ill for ages after - I can still taste thinners when I breathe in and out (with that cold feeling at the back of my throat each time I breathe). I'm having a break now from it to both allow the paint to dry and hopefully get the thinners out of my lungs.

 

 

 

I have sprayed the shell inside and out and in every crevice I can get to by turning the shell on the spit. So far I have used six litres of primer and ten litres of the white. The primer was grey and took quite a bit of covering. Apparently a trick I have since learned is to mix a bit of the top colour in with the primer to reduce the need for such a thick top coat - or try and get some white primer in my case!

 

 

 

I have given the car about three full coats - applied while the previous coats were still a bit tacky. I am now waiting for it to harden sufficiently to allow me to flat it off again for a final couple of coats to go on. I'm happy with the finish up to yet but I noticed a couple of small dents (stones or car park trolley marks?!) I had missed on the rear quarters which I have had to deal with and prime over again. I'll just give these a bit more top coat in my next spraying session.

 

 

 

While I am waiting I will rub down and paint the doors and prep the new fibreglass (lightweight!) bonnet and bootlid I have treated myself to.

[clone baby]

Assembly (1)

 

 

 

Not updated the site for quite a while but I am still making slow progress.

 

 

 

I have fitted all the suspension to the car having painted it where new parts haven't been purchased. New Track Control Arms and Track Rod Ends have been fitted as well as a Double Width kit on the front.

 

 

 

I have had the Limited Slip Diff built up by Trevor of Transpower in Chesterfield and managed to get a 4.4 ratio Crown Wheel and Pinion to liven acceleration up a bit.

 

[clone baby]

Brakes

 

 

 

At last an update!. It's been a while owing to having a new garage put up so I've done nothing to the car for about five months now. I'm determined to get the car finished for the spring so hopefully the next couple of months should see some work being done.

 

 

 

I am using disc brakes all round on the Escort. The fronts are 2.8 Injection Capri vented discs and callipers and the rears are 2WD Sierra Cosworth (or rear Granada/Sierra - they are the same) Caillipers on solid discs.

 

 

 

I have already fitted a bias pedal box which will allow me to adjust the brake balance front to rear (from iside the car with a dash mounted adjuster - when I get round to fitting it) so I don't think a separate brake proportioning valve will be necessary to reduce the braking power to the rear discs. I have also fitted a hydraulic handbrake and am using braided hose on the outside of the car and copper ones inside

 

 

 

Having fitted the front discs on I found that when offering up the front callipers to the mountings on the strut it was obvious that some sort of spacer would be required to get the disc central in the calliper. These were made to suit the bolt diameter with a spacing thickness of 5mm. I am using new callipers as they are still readily available and cheap enough. Pads are standard ones for now but these will be chnged for Mintex or Ferodo Racing ones once I've run the car in.

 

 

 

 

At the rear I sourced some weld on brackets from West Wales Rally Spares. The inside diameter of these where they butt up to the flange on the axle turned out to be too small (they were for the Atlas variety) so I had to have these remade with the correct dimensions for the English Axle. I made sure I welded them on well by prepping the mating surfaces with a chamfer prior to welding and also by clamping them to make sure they stayed perpendicular to the axle tube. With fitting the calliper carriers again it was found that a spacer would be necessary to get the disc centred. This time 4mm spacers were made up to suit.

 

 

 

I now need to find out what handbrake cable to use (Escort Mk6 or Sierra?) and get the pipes finished off.

[clone baby]

Rear Axle

 

 

 

I am using an 'English' Axle. This is the standard one as fitted to most Escorts. I have changed the Crown Wheel and Pinion from the standard RS ratio whic is 3.54 to a taller 4.4 ratio one from an Anglia. This will give better acceleration but reduces top end speed quite a bit. Hopefully some of this loss will be addressed through the use of a 5 speed box.

 

 

 

I have also fitted a new Tranex Plate Type Limited Slip Differential (LSD) and new bearings.

 

 

The axle casing has been strengthened by welding on bracing made from 40mm angle. This wraps round the diff casing and extends out to the leaf spring saddles. (For those of you wanting to do this mod the ideal length of the angle is about 850mm). The angle is cut through to allow it to bend round the diff casing then welded onto the axle tube under slight tension as this helps with the strengthening. I used a ratchet strap to hold it in place while I welded it. The diff casing and axle tube itself is quite thick steel but you need to be careful with the welder around the back plate of the diff casing as it is quite thin there.

 

 

 

 

I have also used a Panhard rod in an attempt to minimise sideways axle movement. This was sourced from Rally & Competition Equipment from Stoke and is their 'Clubman Kit'. If you get one of these ask for the Genuine Ford rubber bush in the rod end as I found the one supplied split when I tried to fit it. Better still try and get them to fit the bush for you as it's a right pain to do!

 

 

 

1.5 inch lowering blocks are fitted and the rubber leaf spring isolators have been replaced with the polyurethane equivalents to tighten things up a bit. The axle is located via anti-tramp bars although I have used uprated tubular bars rather than the standard 'u-section' RS ones. I am using single leaf springs for now but may change these in the future if I find them too soft.

 

 

 

[clone baby]

The Build Up (1)

 

 

 

I've not got a lot of time at the moment so I thought I'd just put some pictures up of the latest efforts on the car.

 

 

 

World Cup Cross Member and 2.4 Turns Quick Rack fitted, Nylon Rack Bushes, Rack Clamps Lock Wired, Plumbed in and Hand Held Extinguishers fitted (note the Lifeline Clubman 2.25ltr plumbed-in bottle is too long to fit in any of the recesses so it had to be mounted on an ally platform I knocked up). Seats and Harnesses are in.

 

 

 

 

Petrol Tank is in, Boot fasteners fitted (I used bonnet pins as I don't like the springs or rubber varieties of boot fastening - note that I had to make a bracket up to fit them). Bracket for FIA cut off (got carried away with new bench drill!).

 

 

 

 

 

The Bias Pedal Box and Master cylinders are fitted. The block is back from a rebore together with new pistons, all bearings and it has had a lick of paint.

 

 

 

I've fitted the bonnet pins. The pins themselves go through the holes 'vacated' by the landing pads for the bonnet so I need some way of setting the bonnet height (sleeve on the pin??)

 

 

[clone baby]

The Build Up (2)

 

 

 

Still busy doing the little bits on the car which seem to take ages. I've sorted all the fuel lines out and fitted the petrol pump (Facet Red Top) and filter (Filter King Alloy Bowl with regulator) in the boot. These are housed in a neat Prepfab bracket which I recommend (http://www.prepfab.com). Prepfab make some mint bits which save loads of time messing about trying fabricate fittings for your car and best of all they're alloy too which means they are light as well.

 

I've fitted quite a few of their bits to the car over the last couple of weeks including a neat battery tray, a spare wheel post, a bolt on strut brace (pictured below) and also some 'flocked' alloy door cards which I'm really chuffed with. I might treat myself to a flocked dash top as well when I've got some cash. The petrol tank, splash bowl and tank platform were purchased some time ago - also from Prepfab.

 

 

 

I'm working on the wiring at the moment. This is not one of my strong points so I'm taking my time and asking people for plenty of advise to try and avoid the loom going up in flames! The wiring I'm putting in is for the fuel pump, radiator fan and spotlights. Even if I don't fit all of these I want to get the wiring in while there is still room to fit it.

[clone baby]

The Build Up (3)

 

 

 

I'm still finishing the build up off prior to the engine being fitted.

 

I have now completed the wiring (I hope) but there may be other bits and bobs to do here once the engine is in. I've fed the fuel pump and radiator fan from the master switch so they will get isolated if anybody pulls the handle on the outside of the car. They are both on relays to protect the switches and wiring. I made an alloy panel to mount these onto the dash at the side of where my trip meter will eventually go.

 

 

 

More bits from Prepfab (http://www.prepfab.com) have been fitted this week including the flocked dash I've been promising myself and I have also had a replica of the works tool pouch which fits onto the rear firewall from them (thanks Richard).

 

 

 

 

 

 

In preparation for the engine installation (and while there is still room!) I have fitted all the cables and pipes in place so it should hopefully be a case of connecting everything up and firing the thing up.I've routed the oil pressure pipe through the hole where the bonnet pull cable used to go - seems to fit OK. Also I am using a twin throttle linkage with a modified accelerator pedal as it was easier to drill the holes for these with the engine out.

 

 

 

 

I've also fitted the mudflaps - each have two brackets (from Prepfab again - is this becoming more of an advert for them!) on the body side with a piece of cut ally plate underneath as the brackets would get flattened quickly if used under here. The mudflaps themselves are secured with thick tie-wraps to make it easy to replace them in service.

 

 

 

I've re-fitted the seats and harnesses. The co-driver seat is lower and further back than the driver's one which makes it easier to see when going sideways round corners! Also it gave me space to put the handheld extinguisher in front of the seat and out of the way of the co-drivers legs. I'm going to lower the co-drivers seat even further when I get round to making some new side brackets as well to get him right out of the way and any weight as low down as possible.

 

 

 

 

I'm using Capri Laser 6x13 Alloys. These are a strong derivative of the normal RS alloy but with the added benefit of being stronger (having thicker spokes) and relatively cheap second hand. However it is impossible to use this alloy with the normal laser wheel nuts when using long wheel studs. Rally and Competition Equipment helped here with the supply of some Group 1 Inserts. These are pressed into the wheel and then allow the use of standard wheel nuts.

 

 

[clone baby]

Engine

 

 

 

I going to run a two litre pinto in the escort - these are a heavy old engine but there are plenty of performance bits available to boost the power over the standard 100 bhp put out by the RS2000 unit.

 

 

 

I'm using a 'Group 1' head. This is fitted with new 44.5mm inlet valves and 38.1mm exhaust valves. Both inlet and exhaust ports have been gas flowed with the seats on the exhaust valve having had hardened inserts fitted so I can run unleaded fuel. These seats were done by Peter Burgess in Alfreton (http://www.peter-burgess.co.uk) who also fitted the bronze valve guides and supplied the new valves as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The bottom end is from a Sierra injection unit. The crank and rods from these are stronger than the standard pinto and the block itself is thicker walled thus allowing it to be bored to higher capacities. My block is only 0.5mm overbored. New pistons/ring have been bought together with Heavy Duty Big End and Main Bearings and thrust washers.

 

 

 

The crank assembly together with the front pulley, flywheel and clutch has been dynamically balanced by John Noble Motorsport in Chesterfield who also lightened the flywheel significantly!

 

[clone baby]

Engine (2)

 

 

 

I got the engine back from the builders (John Noble Motorsport) yesterday. Looks like they have done a good job but it wasn't the cheapest quote I got to have it done so I am hoping it will be decent.

 

 

 

In addition the the other news parts I have had a new Piper BP300 Cam kit fitted with double valve springs. The head had to be modified slightly on the spring seats to accomodate these. This is driven by a vernier with a new cam belt.

 

 

 

I have also had ARP Big End Bolts fitted for added security. New head bolts were used and a Felpro head gasket and a new water pump. For some reason they have stuck temperature sensing stickers on the core plugs (see pics) - they probably don't trust me to look after it!

 

 

 

Nobles have timed the cam in and also static timed the Aldon distributer I've bought but it'll still need a good rolling road session when it's done.

 

 

 

The flywheel clutch face has also been skimmed as there were signs of micro cracking.

 

 

 

Within a few hours of getting it home it was fitted in place in the engine bay. I had been worried about the block touching the bulkhead having heard from friends that they have had problems with this. Mine is OK though.

 

 

 

Thank you to Jason for his help putting it in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[clone baby]

Final Assembly

 

 

 

I've not updated the site for a while so here's where the car is up to.

 

 

 

I had problems with the exhaust manifold fouling the steering rack which held me up for a while - turned out I was using the wrong mounts! Thanks to Richard Lepley at Prepfab for his help with these. The engine now sits straight in the engine bay rather than at an angle.

 

 

 

I managed to get a new alternator and starter motor off e-bay for the car. The alternator is a Sierra one rated at 70 amps - I needed to cut the standard RS plug off the loom for this though and fit ring terminals as the fittings are different.

 

 

 

Sometime ago I was told that the Dellorto twin 40DHLA carbs I had would not be up for the job. I managed to sell these and got some money together to buy some new Weber 45s. These on their own are not cheap but when coupled with the purchase of a new manifold, replacement new trumpets (the standard ones are too long), new K&N filters, and a twin cable linkage the cost is horrendous. I didn't get much change out of a grand. I recommend Chatsworth Motor Spares at Chesterfield for the Weber stuff - not for the price but for the advice given.

 

 

 

The exhaust I've used is a 2.25" ashley system mated to a 3 piece manifold. This is a temporary arrangement as I want to fit a full 2.5" Prepfab system when I eventually rally the car. It'll do nicely to run the car in on though.

 

 

 

The radiator is a Prepfab alloy one with a Spal electric fan attached. The fan is controlled via a thermostatic switch in the header of the rad. This switch originates from a VW Golf. I've had to make hoses up as I could not locate any standard ones which would fit. The top hose is a standard RS one cut and joined to suit the top rad outlet. This was joined using an alloy joining piece from Rally Design. The bottom hose is standard RS but too close to the front of the engine block for my liking. Heater hoses have been bodged and joined from various Ford hoses I had lying around.

 

 

 

Ignition-wise there is a Lumenition performance kit which included the matching coil - these are mounted on an alloy panel on the passenger side inner wing. Magnacore 8mm competition silicone leads have been used as well.

 

 

 

The gearbox went if very easily thanks to the big tunnel but it was a bit of a job modifying the gearbox mounting to suit the wider tunnel - this took 3 attempts and I'm still not 100% with it now.

 

 

 

I had a propshaft made up by Wilson Driveshafts in Nottingham as the one I had was too short.

 

 

 

The last thing I have done is filling the fluids. On the advice of the engine builder I am going to run the engine in on Valvoline Racing, the gearbox oil is Silkoline 75/90 Fully Synthetic (advice on grade from Tran-x - they suggested Millers though but I couldn't get it!), the axle oil is Castrol specific for LSDs.

 

 

 

Although it doesn't really warrant it I'm using Castrol SRF synthetic brake fluid. I put it in in case I upgrade the brakes in the future to save replacing pipes (apparently you can't mix it with the normal DOT 3/4/5 stuff). Anyway I have since regretted this with the fluid to the rear brakes leaking out over the course of a week (pipe not tight enough) - I had to buy another litre and it's expensive stuff.

 

 

 

While I'm on the subject of brakes I had a problem with the rear callipers sticking on after I had bled up the brakes. To cut a long story short there needs to be a bit of play left in the master cylinder rod on the handbrake and in the pedal box to allow the fluid to go back after the brakes have been applied. Failing to diagnose this problem was stressful to say the least. Oh and another thing cellulose paint does not like SRF brake fluid no matter what people tell you.

 

 

 

That's it for now. The cars booked in to the engine builders next Monday to be started and have it's initial rolling road set up so I'm nearly done!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[clone baby]

On the Road!

 

 

 

I've had the car on the road for about 8 weeks now trying to put the 500 running in miles on the car before I can take it back for it's final rolling road session and re-torque of tappets, bolts etc. It's a bit boring to drive to be honest as I am restricted to 3000rpm during the engine run in and this means about 50mph in 5th with the 4.4 diff. I have done about 350 miles as it stands now. The cam is just coming in at 3000 as well so it's tempting............ Another issue is the 14 or so miles to the gallon it does!

 

 

 

 

I am still tweaking and modifying things at the moment as well. The engine builder did not like the fuel pump mounted horizontally so I have changed and mounted it on one of Prepfab's vertical mounting brackets. I have also fitted a Prepfab navigators alloy foot rest.

 

 

 

Some small issues with the car I have encountered are:

 

 

 

- a melted clutch cable (now replaced and heat wrapped)

 

- bonnet flying off then being run over by car following me (note to self: remember to secure bonnet pins in future)

 

- gearbox mounting rubber too soft (box was hitting tunnel over bumps - sorted by Prepfab - cheers Rich!)

 

- rear brakes sticking on (bled up again and now seem OK)

 

- leaking brake fluid from hose joints (silicone brake fluid = expensive)

 

- exhaust blowing (taken off and refitted)

 

- noises from gearbox or clutch (both brand new so to be investigated)

 

- snapped front number plate

 

- adjustable panard rod tower adjusting it's height on it's own (now welded in fixed position)

 

- coil to dizzy wiring coming apart (not easy to find to say the least)

 

 

 

The ancillary wiring (fuel pump/rad fan/fuses etc) is out at the moment as I am re-doing the mounting plates for these. I'm not sure whether to use an alloy centre console or to try and mount everything out of sight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[clone baby]

Dash / Electrics

 

 

 

I haven't used the car for a few weeks now owing to the suspected gearbox problem (I can't bring myself to take it off at the moment for some reason). In the meantime I've been messing with the wiring for the fuel pump, rad fan, map light, fuse box and relays etc (ie. all the bits you add to a rally car which are not incorporated in a standard RS wiring loom). I had wired these up previously but had not included relays in the wiring and a friend of mine pointed out that this was not a good thing!

 

 

 

 

I've made an alloy fuse panel which I've attached to the side of the passenger footwell. This houses a 10 way blade type fuse box and some neat relay holders which I've mounted above it. The fuse box is connected to a new alloy centre console (from Prepfab) with a wiring harness I've made up. Each switch circuit is fused and feeds to a relay which in turn powers a fused circuit to the relevant accessory (i.e. fan or pump etc). I have mounted the standard Escort heated rear window and hazard warning light switches in this panel as well. The holes for these were a bit of a pain to cut out but I think it looks OK.

 

I have also mounted the FIA cut off switch and the pull for the plumbed in fire extinguisher in the panel together with the standard RS cigar lighter socket which a potti can be run off.

 

I've just got a bit more wiring to do (I've run out of cable) then it's done and I'll then have a go at the dreaded gearbox!

[clone baby]

Jeg håper dette var nyttig info ang. opp pussing av bil, for jeg ble kjøl veldig insperert til og gjøre det samme med colten min :)

[Breisladdern]

Her snakker vi extreme makeover!!